Commuting By Bike: The Basics
Considering cycling to work? As the weather gets warmer and the price of fuel increases, now might be the time to try commuting by bike. It's a great way to save on fuel and parking costs, while also getting some fresh air and exercise along the way – what's not to like? Here's our guide to commuting on two wheels...
Do I Need A Specific Type Of Bike?
No! To begin with, use what you have: Any bike will do, if it's in safe working condition and fits you comfortably. That said, you will have a nicer time riding a bike which was designed for the job, particularly if you're commuting longer distances in all weathers.
If you're looking to buy something specifically for the task, the most popular options are hybrid bikes, rigid mountain bikes, and fixed gear bikes. Each have their own benefits, but they're all tied together by their relative simplicity and practical features. We'll go into a bit more detail on bikes later.
While it's not impossible to commute on a road bike or mountain bike, they both have their drawbacks. Most road bikes are limited to small tyres, making them less suited to rough roads and cycle paths. The riding position may not be particularly comfortable if you're riding in casual clothes, or with a backpack, and its often difficult to fit mudguards for winter use. Equally, mountain bikes tend to have big, grippy tyres which roll slowly but wear quickly, small gears which are unsuited to riding in traffic, and suspension components which require regular maintenance. Still, if you're willing to accommodate the downsides, you might benefit from the speed and efficiency of a road bike, or the off-road capability of a mountain bike to avoid traffic.
But Where Do I Put My Bike?
Lack of secure bike storage is a common issue preventing people from cycling to work, but there's often a solution hiding in plain sight. If you plan to commute all year round, covered bike parking is ideal to protect your bike from the worst of the weather during the day.
Many larger workplaces have a plant room or boiler room – it's well worth asking if you can use this to store your bike during the day. It might even be warm enough in there to dry any damp clothing before your ride home. Failing that, there might be an under-used store room or cleaning cupboard where nobody would notice the addition of a bicycle in the corner. If that's not an option, but your building has security staff, it's worth trying to make friends; they might let you store your bike in their office. It never hurts to ask.
Failing that, if you have no choice but to leave your bike outside, without cover, there are a few precautions you can take. A very cheap bike may be an advantage here, or at least one which looks old and worn – this will be less attractive to thieves, and cheaper to replace when it succumbs to theft, or the effects of being left out in the elements every day. Invest in a reasonable quality lock, and try to make sure there are no easily-stolen components left unlocked. Take your lights with you into the workplace, and consider replacing any quick-release skewers with security skewers to make it harder for people to steal your wheels or saddle. Try to lock your bike somewhere highly visible – thieves generally aim for quieter places where they're less likely to be disturbed.
Remember that a bike used or stored in bad weather is going to need more frequent maintenance than one which is only used in dry conditions and stored indoors.
Planning A Route
In the UK, you're legally allowed to cycle on any road except motorways, and certain restricted dual carriageways (eg sections of the A55 in North Wales) where non-motorised traffic is prohibited. That said, there are certain roads that you technically can use, but it will not be particularly safe or pleasant to do so. Off-road, you're entitled to cycle on canal towpaths, designated cycle paths, unsurfaced public roads (green lanes), and public bridleways. You are not permitted to use public footpaths, or to cycle on pavements except when part of a cycle path or shared space.
On the road, remember to be vigilant, and make your intentions clear to other road users with confident road positioning and signals. Avoid riding in the gutter – you have as much right to use the road as anyone else; gutters are full of debris, grids and holes which may cause problems. On residential streets, give plenty of space to parked cars, and watch out for opening doors.
When planning a route, consider using resources such as Strava or Garmin Heatmaps - these show the relative popularity of roads and tracks with other cyclists, so can be a good indicator that a route is safe or pleasant to use (or simply the only viable option). You can also use Google Maps to show some cycle routes (click layers, select Cycling). Ordnance Survey maps are great to check if cycling is permitted on rural paths, and to check how hilly your route is. Don't forget that the fastest route in a car may not be the fastest route on a bike – you can often take more direct routes along quieter roads.
As always, be courteous to other road users, and give way to pedestrians when riding off-road. It's advisable not to wear headphones when cycling.
What Should I Wear?
For short distances, it really doesn't matter too much. If you're riding further or faster, you're probably going to get a bit sweaty. While cycling-specific clothing is great, it's not essential to start off. Prioritise breathable materials, and don't forget that you'll warm up once you get going, but your hands and feet will be subject to wind chill. Avoid anything with thick seams around the crotch or buttocks. If you're riding in trousers, tuck the right leg into your sock, or use some trouser clips to keep them out of the chain.
If you're riding on roads, try to wear visible clothing. In the daytime, simply wearing bright colours is more than enough. In low light, fluorescent hi-viz is most effective, and at night, reflective strips are best. If you're riding in the dark in city traffic, jackets like this Madison Stellar commuter jacket are well worth considering. Don't rely on clothing alone. When buying accessories, consider items which are brightly coloured or have reflective detailing – buy a brightly coloured helmet rather than a matte black one, for example. Helmets are not legally mandated in the UK, but definitely advisable, and far more comfortable than they used to be.
As for saddle comfort... for short distances, you don't need padded shorts. If you're not used to riding a bike, there is an inevitable "bedding in" period as the muscles in your buttocks get used to taking your weight, during which they might bruise a bit. If after a week or two, you are experiencing any pain or soreness, don't just throw more padding at the issue with padded shorts or a big gel saddle cover. Everyone's anatomy is a bit different, but there's a finite amount of space down there, and adding ever more padding will just cause more chafing and soreness, without addressing correct support and pressure relief. Consider a different saddle shape, and contact us about a saddle fit session if you're uncomfortable.
If you're riding any distance, consider using panniers rather than a rucksack, if your bike will allow. This will reduce the weight on your upper body, and your back won't get as sweaty.
Accessories To Commute-Proof Your Bike
Lights
If you're riding at night, you need lights by law. Using a light can enhance your visibility even in daylight conditions, so many cyclists opt to use daytime running lights. Either way, a good set of rechargeable lights is important for regular use. If you won't be riding at night, these Knog Plus lights are great to be seen with, and the rubber strap mount makes them really easy to fit and remove, so they don't get stolen outside work.
If you're riding in the dark, you ideally want a minimum of around 500 lumens to actually see where you're going, and more would be better. This Knog Blinder Pro 700 set is a great value option, with a good rear light included as well. This will give you a couple of hours of usable brightness for commuting in the dark.
If you want the absolute best lights, money-no-object, check out our guide to the British-made 2026 Exposure Lights range.
Locks
If you're going to be leaving your bike outside, you're going to need a lock if you plan to ride it back home too. As a general rule, if a bike looks to be thoroughly locked, thieves are less likely to try to steal it in the first place – they'll move on to an easier target. Sold Secure ratings are a good indicator of the quality of a lock. For commuting, avoid anything less than Bronze, except for use as a secondary lock. If your bike will be left in the same place every day, you could leave a heavy chain lock in-situ.
Cable locks are lightweight and flexible, but easily cut through - they're good if the bike is stored within secure premises, or as secondary security alongside a more secure lock.
D-Locks are the most popular option, and many come with an additional length of steel cable which you can use to secure the wheels to the bike. This Kryptonite Keeper lock is a popular option. If the bike is worth more than a few hundred, consider something more secure. D-Locks can be a bit bulky, and hard to transport.
Folding locks are a great option - they offer comparable levels of security to a D-Lock, but in a much more compact and flexible form, and they fit into a small holster mounted on your bike frame. Check out the Abus Bordo range if that sounds appealing, just be prepared to pay a little more versus a comparable D-Lock.
Tyres
Regular commuting takes its toll on tyres, and city roads and paths are often full of sharp debris. A set of puncture resistant commuting tyres is worth your consideration for peace of mind – nobody wants to be late for work on a cold, rainy morning because of a puncture. The best option will vary depending on your bike type, but consider durable, puncture-resistant tyres like the Schwalbe Green Marathon for road commuting, or the Schwalbe Smart Sam Greenguard if you're commuting off-road. Neither of them will win any races, but commuting is about consistency and reliability, not speed. Both tyres feature a thick puncture breaker strip under the tread. Many commuting tyres also feature reflective detailing, a great way to improve your visibility from the side.
Other Considerations
If your bike has quick release wheels, consider replacing them with some security skewers such as these from Halo - they should prevent someone from stealing your wheels. Regular cleaning and maintenance will help keep your bike safe and reliable; have a look at Fenwick's bike cleaner spray for a non-aggressive but very effective cleaner. Wax-based chain lubes like this one from Effetto Mariposa are also worth considering - they're a lot less messy than normal chain oil, so you won't get oily marks on your trousers. Mudguards are also well worth considering, keeping you and your bike much cleaner on wet roads, but you're best to check what will fit best on your bike before purchasing.
The Best Bikes For Commuting
For most commutes, a Hybrid bike is the best option. The riding position is upright but efficient, and the tyres are big enough to handle rough roads and light off-road use. Hybrid bikes generally have a sensible spec, with reliable, hardwearing components, and clearance to fit proper full-length mudguards.
Gravel bikes, rigid mountain bikes and even fixed gear road bikes can also make good commuters, but a Hybrid is the best option for most people. If you're not sure what type of bike might suit you best, check out our guide to gravel bikes here for a good overview.
We would particularly recommend the Giant Escape 2 City, and the women's counterpart the Liv Alight 2 City. Both bikes feature hydraulic disc brakes for reliable stopping in all weathers, puncture resistant tyres, a sensible value-for-money spec, and built-in mudguards.
It's also worth considering the Trek Dual Sport range if you want to head a little more off-road on your commute – the fatter tyres work better on rougher terrain, without being as slow as a mountain bike. Don't forget to add some mudguards for all-weather practicality.
Cycle To Work Schemes
If you're employed, Cycle to Work schemes are a great way to get a quality bike for a low price. The bike is paid for in monthly installments, which are taken from your wages pre-tax. This in turn lowers your taxable income, reducing your tax bill for the year by roughly 30-40% of the value of the bike. In effect, this equates to buying the bike at ~35% discount, and getting to split the payments over 12 months.
If you're self employed, speak to your accountant about the best way to benefit from purchasing a bike.
Most cycle to work schemes are administered by a Cycle to Work Scheme provider such as cyclescheme.co.uk or Green Commute Initiative. Some small employers offer their own internal schemes (we're happy to work with you on this, give us a call for more info). Each scheme has its own terms and conditions, governed by DfT regulations, and each employer will reach their own agreement with the scheme provider about maximum value and terms. As a general rule, most schemes do not allow you to "top up" above your voucher amount, so please check what you're eligible for before applying.
We work with almost all of the Cycle to Work Scheme providers, but each has a slightly different process. Get in touch with us to check the best way to proceed with your specific scheme.